We are going to create
Your Pilgrimage
We will elaborate together the experience you are about to live,
You choose from the option I mention, the I adapt myself.
Your pilgrimage
I insist, I wish that the path you will take is matching your desires. You choose the mean of transportation, budget, number of temples, other activities, go to Koyasan or not, … You will find the options, the pros and cons of each, below. We can mix it up (start on foot, finish on bike for exemple). Accomodation is a concern now on the island regaring their declining number, so we might be left with no options on some days.
My recommandation for a first visit on the island. A long distance walk is an exeptionnal experience, that let you enjoy every moment, meeting, landscape, but also to reconnect with your body, to sleep better, eat better, … The hard portions might differ from one person to the other. For me, it is the urbans area, other might find the moutains to be hard, but with the group, we can keep our moral strong and enjoy the moment with an intensity harldy ever reached in our daily life. It is the slowest way to go around the island, possibly the hardest, with blisters for exemple, muscle pain. An easy way to avoid that is to be fully prepared before the trip, and to know our limits. It is also the less flexible, and a problem on the way, or some extra kilometers that were not planned might prove very demanding. 45 days and about 30 km a day is a reasonnable pace.
- Enjoy fully the experience
- Risk of disconfort or injury
- More interaction with the locals
- Slow
- Increased spiritual aspect
- Not very flexible
An interesting alternative to walking, for those who don’t have enough time for the full walking tour. It is still challenging enough, and let you enjoy the scenaries, but also gives you the opportunity to pass the less interesting part faster. It add a bit more flexibility, a 10 km detour is not out of the possible for exemple. The driving experience in Japan is not bad, with a lot of cycling road, but it might still take a toll on the spiritual element, as you are focus on driving. We encounter a lot more people, but we have less time to exchange with them. 3 weeks is a good average.
- Half the number of days required
- Less opportunity to meet people
- More flexible regarding the itinary
- Many mountains
- Quite secured
- Weather has more impact
I would take this option only for a motivated demand. We could complete the entire pilgrimage in 10 days or so, but it will lack of core. It is mentionned here because it is good to know that it exist. One member of the group may not feel well, or suffer from a light injury. It is possible to take the bus, train, even taxi to reach some points on the pilgrimage and continue from here. It is good to push yourself, but we try not to go beyond our physical limit. And this is the option to avoid that.
- Fast
- Barely any contact
- Easy
- Spiritual aspect to the lowest point
For a complete experience on the island of Shikoku, it is recommanded to enjoy the hospitality provided by the locals. This will be in 2 places, Minshuku, and Ryokan. Usually 4000 yens without meals, around 7000 all included, you will stay in an authentic japanese atmosphere, usually with a high standard service level. It is the best feeling to grow back some strengh after a lenghty day, and share with other pilgrims.
- Authentic experience
- Check in and out quite strict
- Shikoku’s soul
- Often full
More standard, hotels comes with a large range of prices. From the Business Hotel with a bed, a desk and a shower for 3000 yens to luxury onsen hotels, with large public baths and gourmet restaurant for more that 15000 yens. Perhaps a bit more common experience, but the service level is still by the japanese standrads.
- Reliable
- Standards
- More frequent
- Not necesseraly “pilgrim friendly”
Surely the most unforgetable moment on the pilgrimage, to spent a night in a temple is a magical moment. Called Shukubo (宿坊), that type of accomodation is less and less provided, but in my opinion, it is a must-do. Not only you will enjoy the temple ground fully, you may (or must sometimes) participate in religious rituals, usually in the morning. You may even have a chance to enjoy the majestic goma ritual, a fire ceremony that will mark your memory. What is more appropriate than to wake up to the sound of chanting sutras on a buddhist pilgrimage ? Usually around 7000 yens.
- Unique Experience
- Very formal
- The heart of the pilgrimage
- Often full
Once considered as the best accomodation practice, it is nowadays frown upon by inhabitants. I personnally find it useful, not only from a financial point of view. A bit more discomfort some nights will let you relax even more in other accomodations. Two nights under the rain in tent on a mountain, and the next minshuku will be heaven. I will advise against going full camping mode on this pilgrimage, because it goes against the will of certain inhabitants. Many places closed on due the the misconduct of certain pilgrims (not only foreigners) but many places are still welcoming walking pilgrims for free or for a donation.
- Very low cost or free
- Rough nights
- Freedom
- Heavy backpacks (tents, sleeping bags, …)
An image that may come to mind when you think about Japan : Cherry blossoms. To walk among those white and pink pearls is something incredible. It is the busiest season for pilgrims. The Golden Week, 10 days of national holidays, is the hardest time to find an accomodation, usually booked month in advance for the best one. The ideal starting time would be March, to be on the path before the pilgrims rush, and to enjoy the pre-show : plums blossoms. It might still be cold, so keep that in mind when packing.
- Cherry/plum blossoms
- Very busy
- Good weather
- Too many pictures of sakuras on your phone
I would not wish that for my worst ennemy. Very high temperature, 80% humidity … If it wasn’t enough, it is also typhoon season, that might stop the pilgrimage for several days, and block some mountain path. More ? Mosquitos, snakes, killer bees, full of energy in this heat. Still here ? Godzilla, as well as vilains in Anime (Maijin Buu in Dragon Ball) are all out in Summer !
As the pilgriamage by car, I wouldn’t do it during the summer season. But for a good reason, you might convince me to try.
- Less people on the way
- Heat, Animal hazard, Typhoons
- Increasing chances to meet Son Goku
- Health risk (More and more common in Japan)
Litteraly Fire Trees in Japanese, Autumn is probably my favorite season. Many people may not think about it right away, but japan offers beautiful colors at that time of the year also. Golden Gingkos, Fire marple Trees, … Temperatures are also cool, and the weather is usually good. It is less busy than Spring, but some special Autumn Foliage Events may prove difficult to handle.
- Autumn colors
- Quite busy
- Good weather
- Some late typhoons
A good alternative for those who are looking for peace and quiet. Winter is not very popular for pilgrims, and it might be an asset for some people. The weather is still fine, but we might have some snow in the mountains. However, many places are closed during this off season. With a bit more equipment to survive the cold, and a good planning to get the maximum of daylight, the pilgrimage is possible in Winter.
- Not Busy
- Some closed accomodation
- Cold air makes the landscapes clearer
- More weight due to more equipment
The “basic” itinerary of Shikoku’s pilgrimage, the easiest for signs and accomodation, the most frequented by pilgrims. The way is clear and well maintained, with some variable to choose from. It is the basis of the pilgrimage, whatever options you may choose on top of that. Around 1200 km full circle back to Ryozenji, temple number 1, some mountains, some hard portions, a lot of accomodation and food on the way.
- The pilgrimage
- Some regrets not to have explored more
- Security
- A lot of concrete and roads
Also called the 20 side temples, they offer an interesting experience. They are not part of the 88 officials, but their history is linked with Kukai. Some of the most beautiful temples, and some of the best Shukubo are in those 20 temples, according to me. The hardest temples are in this list as well, like Otaki-ji, the highest of all, and very isolated. The challenge is great, the reward even better.
- Deeper experience
- Some difficults paths
- Magnificient sites
- Less accomodation
There is the official way, and then some curiosities along the path. Mount Ishizuchi for exemple, the highest mountain on the Island, is accessible from temple 60. Kompira san, a fantastic shinto sanctuary, is very close from side temple number 17. Some museum, castles or gardens are within reach. If you want to fully experience the island, its culture and history, there are plenty of options.
- Other experience
- Might take some time and detour
- Discover the culture of the Island
- May break the rythm from the walk
The eternal resting place of Kobo Daishi, Mount Koya is a sacred place, a temple city, and the perfect transition from being a pilgrim to being a tourist. Accessible from Tokushima, it may seem like far away from Shikoku, but you are very much in the right place as a pilgrim. Among the dozens of tourist who came to enjoy this World Heritage, the pilgrim is still a special guest. A recommended stop.
It is good to plan a little bit more time in Japan that what is intended. Indeed, if we think that 50 days is enough to complete the pilgrimage, some light pain, bad weather, a beach too beautiful not to stop, … Well, some more days are not a bad thing to plan. The tourist is allowed 90 days usually, so we have plenty of time to go around Shikoku, but then? Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo, Fuji, Miyajima, … I can plan for you different tours, and you may enjoy it with or without me !